Laird Hamilton is an American big-wave surfer who has revolutionized extreme sports by riding walls of waves in the excess of 80-100 feet; prior to Laird’s breakthrough considered the unrideable. Through his art of surfing, he has tested the limits as to how far it is possible for a human to challenge the forces of nature. Born in San Francisco, but raised on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, by his mother, Laird grew up by the ocean, started surfing at an early age, and quickly became an accomplished surfer. Laird co-invented tow-in surfing in the mid 1990s, which is a technique that uses motorized assistance, water jets or Jet Skis etc., allowing the surfer to catch faster moving waves than was traditionally possible when paddling by hand. Tow-in allowed surfers to catch big waves and cross the 30 foot barrier, and the technique has been regarded as the biggest revolution in the history of surfing. Laird has also played an important role in the experimentation and development of foilboard surfing, and also taken Stand up paddle surfing to new heights, through which he interprets and incorporates his own style and methods into an ancient Hawaiian technique and art form. Through his avant-garde performances, Laird Hamilton has opened a floodgate of opportunities for modern surfers and extreme sport enthusiasts around the world.
Chris meets with Laird Hamilton in his home in Malibu: from southern California to Hawaii as a baby, pushed into waves at 2-3 years old, relationship to the ocean, humility, perseverance, fear, respect, and understanding of the ocean, childhood dream, lifestyle, philosophies, influencers, motivation, achievements, accomplishments, extreme training programs, endless preparations, elaborate training routines, big conditions, critical situations, close calls, instincts, coordination, reflexes, stability, calculations, innovation, versatility, controlling adrenalin, experiences, practice and talent, favorite spot, Jaws, sensation of speed, greatest memory and personal experience, riding waves over a 100 feet, tube riding, big wave foiling and the evolution, Point-Break, what’s next and more.
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